I finally took the live black wire and momentarily touched each motor terminal until I figured out which two made the motor go forward and reverse. It helps to have an electrical meter so you can test continuity. On the back of the connection cover, is says to change direction, swap the connection to the yellow and blue wire. I'll assume that the diagram on the link is the same as the one inside the cover. Also Remember that with a threaded spindle and a brake it's possible for the chuck to unscrew and come off in normal Forward rotation, especially if there is a bit of weight it the item being chucked and the brake applied. I'm wiring my mill that way, but have relays involved there, so my diagram would be way overcomplicated for this.
On the switch: Sw1 connex to motor P2+3 Sw2 is not externally connected to anything. If anyone knows where I can find a. Thanks all for the suggestions. Turn the switch to the 'Forward' position. Then you'll have one wire coming from the switch going to one of the motor terminals.
It's not as hard as it sounds, but you will need to extend the yellow and blue wires to the switch. If it is turning backwards, shut down, unplug the cord and swap the ble and yellow wires at the switch. I've looked at past posts, but so far, no help. We thank you for your visit to our website. In and out for hot will be one the long side, neutral on the other.
I'd appreciate any help from you electrical heads out there. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Make sure you get the information you are looking for. Would anybody happen to have a drawing of what goes where? I mounted the motor behind the spindle so the 3 phase motor is still down in the cabinet. Chances are you're using 110v a black and a white wire single phase normal house current. So we are able to bring more beneficial information on next content. I believe the following connex will work, using your connection diagram for the switch nomenclature: Line1 connex directly to P1, neither are on the switch.
Any statements posted constitute the statements of the poster and are not the statements of Grainger. The Dayton switch wiring can be seen at: Unfortunately, it is for a dual-voltage motor, but that only means I'll need to explain how your installation will differ. It is a two layer switch, with five wires coming out of the fan. I have still a problem being sure how to wire it even with having the diagram. Then one wire coming from the switch going to a different terminal, making it run in reverse.
Thanks again, and also all you guys who posted. I have a diagram for both the motor and the switch. Do not forget to share and love our reference to help further develop our website. We have been looking for this picture via on line and it originated from reputable source. I have the same problem with mounting a single phase motor on my Cincinnati 2 tool and cutter grinder and having to changing the wires to switch the rotation. Place the handle of the switch to the centre 'Off' position and plug the power cord in.
The link for the dayton switch is exactly how you discribed, same model switch, but I can't help feeling that it only connects the cross terminals, or 2 at a time. We had a chip spinner one place I worked, it had a tapered basket for chips, held several bushels of chips. I know how it sounds - crude but effective. They go to separate coils in the motor that make it start in one direction or the other. Also make sure that when it is in the off position, there's no power going to the motor.
Reversing the direction just below centrifugal switch reset might eventually burn up the start winding if done too many times. It not easy to tell them apart at a glance, but it shows after a time. Furthermore it will be a greater possibility if the spindle is reversed while rotating forward. P1 to line wired through with no contact on the Drum Switch. Sw3 connex to motor lead 5.
My motor looks like twoluvbirds running on low voltage and having to change wire 5 and 8 to change rotation. A switch of this type will have five screws for attaching wires, 1 for ground, 2 in and 2 out terminals. Should be used in conjunction with a motor that has overload protection or where no overload protection is required. I suspect you machine was set up with a mechanical push button or toggle switch to start it. You first need to set your meter on ohms and figure out which of the four outgoing terminals are going to give you power when you flip the switch from forward to reverse. The motor is a craftsman general purpose motor, model 113. Am I'm full of bologna? One thing to remember because of the centrifugal switch a running single phase motor will not reverse like a 3 phase motor when the drum switch is reversed.
I'm running it 110v and would like to add a Drum Reversing Switch. Might be a good opportunity to mark the wires and connections for whenever you need to get into it again. In no switch position should the incoming line voltage be applied directly to either the blue or the yellow wire. Reversing the direction just below centrifugal switch reset might eventually burn up the start winding if done too many times. Plus it's fresh on your mind. Thanks a lot Sch Hot Rolled, it worked perfectly.