Sorry, I would love to help you more. If it still isn't working the fault is elsewhere. To be fair, he said he's never heard a boiler make this noise before, so he's being honest about not really knowing what it is. The front panel of the programmer will fit to the same backplate. He fitted another circuit board I think, at least he mentioned pcb to test it and refitted the programmer, but that just made the display on the programmer completely blank.
This will also allow you to access the batteries. The pump is the same as the photo muggles posted. Remove the programmer from the base, by loosening the securing screw on the top, and tilting the top of the programmer away from the wall then lift up and off. The last expense they need is a new boiler! Put this wire into terminal 6 along with any wires already in there. You will see why when it is off.
Check these for faults - burnt out head, fitted wrong way round or seized up! Probably looks like this See if you can find it. I've just been round there now to check the things people have suggested and take a few photos. . Our gas engineer is going to try and change the programmer first as a process of elimination, but we wondered if anyone has any ideas what it could be? Like Echo the husky said though, we don't want to be replacing parts as it could get expensive especially because my parents are hoping to move soon. Nov 13, 2009 Pull the unit straight out and away from the wall. The vibrating noise definitely seems to be coming from the programmer.
Each page also comes with pictures and a video to make completing those jobs even easier! It's been off for a couple of months we turned if off , but worked fine. The central heating works fine. The switch inside the valve actuator is not needed to fire the boiler and pump, the cylinder stat does this directly. The front panel of the programmer will fit to the same backplate. If you can, turn the hot water on, wait for the noise to start, then move the lever on the black panel on the side to a different position. I've probably got the terminology wrong, but the gas engineer mentioned pcb a few times. Well, if no, then we certainly do! I just want to ensure it's safe for them.
I've no idea if it's a y plan don't know what this is. If your system is 'S' plan, you will have two of these, one for heating and one for hot water, located near your hot water cylinder. It is plugged into the baseplate. I moved the lever to the three different positions it was in the middle position , but the noise remained the same. The boiler control hasn't been reconnected as I thought please see photo , so I am unable to check if the central heating still works. If the hot water now comes on fine, you need a new programmer. Replacing things willy nilly is soon going to get expensive.
Whenever the hot water is programmed to come on, we just hear a loud vibrating noise we can't tell where it's coming from, but it's not the motor and the pilot light doesn't go on. I don't think it is battery operated. Just kiddng, you wil see the batteries on the backside. Hope it is understandable and someone can help. To reinstall, just line up the oinds and press in place. The heating and hot water programmes are completely independent, to allow the system to be operated in the most energy efficient manner possible. When did you last replace the batteries in it? Programming the timing sequence is straightforward, using the top slider switch.
I don't know how reliable a check this is at the moment though with the boiler control being detached! I can only see one Sundial Y plan please see photo which is situated above the motor. When pulling off use gentle rocking as you pull. The gas engineer has already removed the programmer fascia. However trying to diagnose the exact problems that you have would be very difficult without actually seeing the wiring. If the vibrating noise is coming from the programmer it is likely faulty.
Within this area of our site have literally hundreds of how-to guides and tutorials that cover a huge range of home improvement tasks. Some photos would probably help. Mark the wire in terminal number 8 with tape or similar so you don't forget what wire goes where. Sounds like your engineer's mind is fairly blank if he's trying to cure vibrations by replacing electrical components, and it also sounds like he's bu99ered your programmer. The boiler is at my parents' house.
They may have leaked all over the circuit board and ruined it. Thanks again for everyone's advice. The heating and hot water programmes are completely independent, to allow the system to be operated in the most energy efficient manner possible. You can bypass the programmer by: Powering off the heating system at the mains isolator or fuse board. You definetly have a control issue. This unit is a 7 day full programmer that gives.