So we need a little more info on what you have. Connected to it was the thermocouple and the thermostat 110V. Double check the probe wiring also. This can be done by lengthening it or making it of thinner wire. Keep the black wire from your pigtail outlet connected to terminal 1. Is there anything I can do to test this or something? Until you come along and pour some bullets and now not as much heat is needed to maintain temperature so the temperature of the metal starts to go up and the integral and differential both turn down the heat, then the pot starts to cool to temp and the integral keeps the heat turned down while the differential starts turning the heat up.
This has worked for me for 8 yrs but it does require that I divide my attention between watching the lights and pouring the stream. What do I have hooked up wrong? The speed of the response transient response is increased by increasing the value of proportional gain Kc. Please check the picture I attached with the part number. I don't see why you are using a dimmer. Or, perhaps a better question is: How small a pot would this arrangement be practical for? If the error value is zero, controller output or response will be zero.
I would then check it in boiling water too as that will be very close to smoking cabinet temps and a good accuracy test. I rewired without the dimmer according to the diagram I posted earlier now the wiring cannot be a problem , adjusted all the settings, but unfortunately still overpowered the heater. I was going to do something different, and probably incorrect so I am really glad to have come on here. Then at some point when you install the working circuit in your cabinet, this is when I would add a cabinet ground wire this will be a new green wire - it can also be bare copper. If the temp is going up fast, turn down the heat setting, if the temp is falling fast, turn up the heat setting. Indicating lights to let me know if the element or other parts are in use could be useful. Click on the image to enlarge, and then save it to your computer by right clicking on the image.
There are many that will work perfectly well and provide the functionality I've documented on this website, but conversely there are also many that will not provide all the same functionality. When the temp is too low, we raise it; and, vice versa. Most of the cases, this controller is provided with manual reset or biasing in order to reduce the error when used alone. There are three logic sections involved in the computer part. Hope this helps, Be Safe, castermmt Joined: 04 Feb 2012 Posts: 4 Location: Southern California Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:56 pm Post subject: Thanks for the help Thanks for the help. I can wire my home and workshop but my vocabulary ends when switches became relays.
A smart phone is much more convenient than a panel mounted timer can ever be. Selecting an op-amp with a good input-offset performance would be the next step. However I have seen other peoples heat treat ovens online and some seem to have their coils much more spaced out. Can you change the control parameters while its controlling the temperature? So it makes much sense to really build an understanding for oneself of how they work. At the extreme it is turn the pot rheostat control to max when the metal is below temperature, turn it off when the metal is at or above temperature.
That does not take much thought. I think I may have to increase the duty cycle though in case I need higher power output or increase Ctl setting. I've renumbered the points on the wiring diagram. There could be two reasons for the power going off. The output will drop somewhat as the temperature rises since the resistance will rise with temperature. The problem is that once you have gotten your nifty new product, the pid controller wiring diagram 230v kiln gets a brief glance, maybe a once over, but it often tends to get discarded or lost with the original packaging.
There are three logic sections involved in the computer part. If you have already changed the off set, I would change it back to the original setting probably 0. We have just added the info we know about the material we are bringing up, or down, to temp. It is an Asian company with a sparse website. Pepe Ray shotgun try this site we buy stuff from them all the time good prices and sounds like you may need a heavy duty relay to control the element.
This has worked for me for 8 yrs but it does require that I divide my attention between watching the lights and pouring the stream. My advice is to not worry about this and simply bridge the terminals. To get a current of 10A you need a resistance of about 25 ohms. What size box does everyone usually get, just so I have an idea? Another problem I have also got a non contact magnetic interlock which I am unsure how it would fit into the circuit. The lights are 35watts each I think and not sure about the fan. Try adjusting your temperature setting below room temperature with the thermocouple attached. In my case it's heating coil which consumes around 10 amps of current and produces 2300 Watts of power.